Bonsai Trees

There are several causes why bonsai go into permanent dormancy, but most bonsai are lost because of inappropriate watering techniques. The proper bonsai care does not really require your 24 attention, but it does necessitate some real understanding of the bonsai plant.

Watering is known to be the most important aspect in bonsai care. However, watering is a learned skill, and there is no one strict rule regarding it. Water requirements differ for each type of bonsai, the type of soil used for each, and the kind of pot each is in. There are other factors that may affect water requirement and the time that watering needs to be carried out such as moisture retention of the soil, weather conditions, size of the pot, and humidity. But even if water requirements are variable, it is still crucial that the tree does not totally dry out. You can check the soil’s dampness by inserting a chopstick or toothpick into it.

Pruning is another element of bonsai care. Although pruning is not necessarily done on a new bonsai plant, it is necessary for those who have achieved some growth. Pruning is the process of trimming the plant into a desired shape. Since trimming and pruning are expressions of art, there are really no definite shapes to follow. However, there are guidelines on how to properly carry out the act.

Not a lot of people know that lighting plays a vital role in bonsai care. Every living thing requires various amounts of sunlight to grow, so consider that when you choose a site for you bonsai. If there is too little sunlight in the area you have in mind, make sure that artificial light is available to suffice for it.

Generally, fertilization is not a huge requirement in bonsai care. The number of times you need to put fertilizer is based on the type of bonsai and potency of the fertilizer used. However, it is not advisable to fertilize a very dry and unhealthy bonsai.

Repotting has also an impact on bonsai care. This process is recommended done on a bonsai in order to give it a good root system and a fresh supply of soil. Most bonsai necessitate repotting after two years, although this also depends on the plant’s growth and the size of its pot.

The proper bonsai care is not that complicated. If you have real passion for the plant, it will all come out naturally.

Culturing a bonsai tree is a very good hobby. However, it will require proper knowledge and patience to grow it with very incredible results.

Choosing the best bonsai tree to grow can be a bit difficult since they have several different species. The Bamboo tree, for instance, reminds one of an authentic Japanese garden. Asians consider the Braided Monkey tree a bringer of good luck. Among different bonsai species, the Ficus bonsai tree is considered among the favorites.

The Ficus bonsai tree is a small version of the Banyan tree. This type of bonsai tree is ideal for indoors. They also come in different varieties all suitable for indoor placement. The most popular specie of the Ficus bonsai tree are the narrow-leaf Ficus, dwarf Ficus and the weeping Ficus.

The most important thing to remember when growing a Ficus bonsai tree is that the plant should be placed indoors through the entire year although fresh air and sunlight is also beneficial. Like most bonsai trees, the Ficus tree should never completely dry out for a long period of time and regular checking of the soil is recommended. To water the Ficus bonsai tree, you need to let it soak in water for at least ten minutes and then completely drain it. This will be enough to keep the soil wet for a certain amount of time.

Bonsai care also requires repotting the plant. It is advisable to repot the bonsai tree every couple of years. Trimming the roots is also needed. The Ficus tree naturally grows very slow and if you see small growths that are covering the container, do not wait for the next year but instead immediately repot the plant. The perfect time to repot a Ficus bonsai tree is during spring. Once the tree is transferred to a bigger pot, water the plant meticulously the same way as instructed above.

In feeding the soil, it is not advisable to use rapid-growth fertilizers. You only need to feed the Ficus plant when it is needed and in very moderate amounts because over use of fertilizers can also kill the plant. For pruning and trimming the branches, you need to remove most of the plant’s new growth during spring and in the first weeks of fall. Remember to be artistic enough in trimming the branches so that the shape and style of the plant will be beautiful.

The purpose for wiring ficus bonsai is to hold the branches in place in order to shape them. The bonsai wire remains around the trunk and branches until the tree can hold it’s desired shape, then the bonsai wire is removed.

The Juniper bonsai tree (Juniper Procumbens Nana) is a very small plant that originated in Japan. This bonsai tree was also made famous because of the movie “The Karate Kid” and every time people think of a bonsai tree the Juniper bonsai tree comes into mind. In Japan, because of the very cold climate, it is all right to leave the plant under direct sunlight. However, in other countries it is kept indoors because of the changing seasons.

The Juniper Bonsai Trees has a very hard trunk that does not flower and because of these features it is considered very easy to trim and train. This specie of bonsai also grows fast and with long branches they can be trained in a variety of styles except the broom style. The branches are easy to train and shape because of their good response to wiring. Other species of bonsai trees are very hard to reshape because of their stiffness although it is still possible. In other words, the Juniper bonsai tree is the perfect plant to design according to your style.

Another advantage of culturing a Juniper bonsai tree is that it can be placed indoors or outdoors even during the winter season although the temperature should not go below 59 degrees. During winter it is very important to protect the wiring from frost.

Some guidelines when growing Juniper bonsai tree:

Temperature and lighting:
If you plan on placing the Juniper bonsai tree indoors, make sure that it will receive at least two hours of direct sunlight everyday. To avoid the plant from drying out, place it far from an air conditioner. Also, make sure that the roots are protected from heat and cold. Always check the soil of the plant and make sure that it is not dry. If the plant is placed outdoors, water it every two days. The plant should be placed in direct sunlight during winter to survive the freezing cold.

Soil feeding:
Do not use rapid-growth fertilizers and application of fertilizers should be done moderately. They should only be applied on the soil and not on the plant because it could die.

Trimming and sculpting:
The new growth of the plant should be removed during spring and fall. The trimming should be carefully and artistically performed for a beautiful result. The roots of the Juniper bonsai tree should also be trimmed every two years.

Culturing a Juniper bonsai tree is a great hobby because it is a good stress reliever.

When you are growing a bonsai tree, you may have observed that the bottom does not grow as fast as the top, a “phenomenon” known as apical dominance. This makes pruning a bonsai a necessary process in order to enhance its growth and maintain its shape.

Not all plants respond well to pruning, especially when it is done at an inappropriate time. Pruning a bonsai properly entails knowing the type of plant it is and which time of the year is best to prune it. Usually though, pruning of new growth is done within the growing season, while pruning of old growth is carried out during mid-autumn.

A bonsai which is remained unpruned for sometime will eventually look like a typical tree, and creating a bonsai means starting the whole process all over again. Thus, to prevent this from happening, pruning a bonsai should be done habitually.

Pruning a bonsai can be done in two manners: finger pruning and leaf pruning. Finger pruning is pinching the new growth that sprouted at the top or does not complement the shape of the bonsai. Pinching is done by removing the growth using your forefinger and thumb. Your other hand should be holding the branch where the growth is attached to. This pruning method for coniferous bonsai is better than using scissors because it does not create an unnatural impression on the foliage.

Leaf pruning a bonsai is mostly done during the summer. Deciduous bonsai and tropical plants are pruned by cutting around 60% to 90% of their leaves using fine scissors. The remaining leaves should be enough to supply energy to the tree.

The previously discussed pruning techniques are those which can be done above the ground. Pruning a bonsai can also be accomplished by trimming below the ground. Root pruning becomes essential when the root has grown too much to be in the same pot. Thus, you need to thin it down to make it fit more comfortably inside the pot. However, when trimming the roots, make sure that you do not cut off more than what is necessary that you will deprive the tree of enough feeding roots. Watering should be done after this process.

Pruning a bonsai is basically like giving a person a nice haircut. There are various styles and methods of achieving a particular look to choose from.

Just imagine a tree being swept by a harsh wind and you’ll see the exact appearance of a windswept-styled bonsai. Yes, this form basically simulates the appearance of a tree being exposed to strong winds. So for this style, expect to see your bonsai with branches that appear swept to one particular angle and side.

Note that of the styles available for bonsai, this is the most difficult to portray, though several beginners have started developing it simply for one main reason - the windswept form is dramatic.

One important thing to note about this form is that the tree should be kept growing with all the branches facing at a particular angle. They should never be upright, but they may cascade.

Recommended Species: As claimed by most experts, almost all types of plant species can be appropriate for this form.

Recommended Techniques: Note that pruning, tapering, and wiring will help make your bonsai to imitate a windswept image.

Known as shakkan in Japanese, the slanting style of bonsai is noted specifically for its acute angles. The trunk and branches of the tree appears to be somewhat blown by the wind, similar to that that grows in nature.

However, what’s interesting to know about this style is that the trunk leans exactly on a definite angle, while the roots emerge right away from the side where the trunk leans, so to support the mass or weight of its body. Other than that, the branches of the slanting bonsai spread in a direction opposite to that of the slanting angle.

The tip of the plant is even noted to be bending forward on a slight manner. You can also see a miniature tree designed in this way with branches on the lower part arranged in groups composed of three. The first branch in this group grows one-third the way up to the trunk.

The slanting style is often addressed by many bonsai masters as the “leaners”. It is also viewed as the style designed to feature an attitude that falls between what the cascades and the upright forms may offer. And, it’s worth knowing that this style has been valued and appreciated by thousands of bonsai planters or growers simply for its being capable of presenting an appearance that defines age and strength.

Recommended Species: The good news about the slanting form is that it works perfect for almost all species of bonsai. Those that grow successfully with the informal upright form are also appropriate with this style, but conifers are deemed as the best.

Recommended Techniques: In terms of techniques, one can train his or her bonsai to appear slanted by incorporating the wiring method applied to the trunks. The trunk should be wired until it slants. Aside from that, the slanting form can also be achieved by simply putting the pot also slanted. This method will definitely allow your bonsai to grow oddly.

Another easiest style to incorporate, the informal upright or Moyogi in Japanese is known specifically for its trunk that grows upward but bends to the right and left, forming an “S”. Yes, it has pronounced twists and bends, allowing the plant to emerge somewhat in motion, which in turn gives the bonsai the informality it deserves.

Aside from the bending trunk of the informal upright bonsai, it is also noted specifically for its branches that grow from the outer side of the curves or bends.

It may appear triangular in shape, especially if you’ll its silhouette, but this does not hold true at all times. One of the reasons for this is that there are informal uprights that grow a bit slanted.

But one thing that sets this style apart from the others is that it never bends toward the viewer, especially when viewed in front.

Recommended Species: For this style, you can take a Japanese maple, beech, trident maple, and all kinds of conifers. Some ornamental plants such as cotoneaster, crab apple, and pomegranate can also be used for this aim.

Recommended Techniques: As with the case of formal uprights, the informal upright form of bonsai also requires tapering on the trunks. The main difference occurs though as with the direction of the trunk and branches in this style is positioned in an informal way, something similar to that of a tree that grows naturally exposed to all types of elements in nature at an early age.

With this, the trunks curve and bend, while the branches grow in a way that they balance this bending effect. The tip of the tree must also be located up the bottom of the plant and should be filled with foliage.

The formal upright style is by far the most basic in the bonsai forms. Being the most basic, it is expected for this style to be done easily and quickly. This is true specifically for the reason that formal upright requires only in the least experimentation possible. It does not even employ most of the selective pruning methods, and what’s further nice to know is that it holds the most displayable nature of bonsai.

But what exactly is evident for the formal upright in terms of form? This is what basically you can notice: In formal upright, you can find your tree or plant growing rounded or in a conical shape. It’s branches are erect and horizontal in growth, but one is positioned lower and extending a bit farther from the rest of the branches and trunks. Other than that, it is typical for the upright form to feature two branches of the lowest position.

These branches are trained to grow forward on the frontal side of the miniature plant, with one branch a bit lengthy than the other. The third branch then is what extends out through the back of the tree right in the middle of the two side branches. It is this part which offers the bonsai a sense of depth.

One thing that must be noted with the formal upright style of bonsai is that the trunk of the tree should be kept straight, while the branches should be maintained in a symmetrical way, giving the plant a sense of depth and balance.

Recommended Species: There are a number of plant species applicable for this specific form. Included in the list are the junipers, larches, pines, as well as spruces. The other alternative may include the maples, redwood, Japanese cedar, and cypress.

Recommended Techniques: For a beginner to succeed in developing a formal upright style of bonsai, he or she should make sure that about one third of the trunks that grow upright should be noticeable from the front. Other than that, the branches should be kept in a pattern that goes like this: the bottom branches should be trimmed the longest and proportionate.

The width of the branches decreases when it comes to those that are growing up the bottom branch and through the tip of the plant. Just think about a cone-like form. That’s how the formal upright bonsai is grown.

To achieve the upright and proportionate position of trunks and branches, one should start cutting the growing apex of the branches and trunks off regularly. A new branch should be wired into a position for it for form as the plant’s tip.